by Stefano Valdesalici
Aphyosemion & Fundulopanchax
Translated
by Lella Cimmarrusti
The
Aphyosemion is the most bred species in aquarium by the hobbyist of the entire
world. They have recently been object of numerous studies in systematic.
Approximately 100 valid species have been described from 1882 to nowadays.
Aboriginal of the west from Africa, their area of distribution stretches from
Senegal to Angola and towards east up to Zaire. The existence of the killies in
this part of Africa is essentially limited to the primary, secondary forest and
to the continent. The division zones of the species (limited also to some kms)
are determined by the different ecological systems and by geographical barriers.
The habitats, extremely diversified, have caused several differentiations in the
reproductive methods.
The
Aphyosemion species could be divided into three principal groups, according to
the average life span: the non-annual, the semi-annual and the annual ones.
It
is the largest grouping, as proof that most killies have a long life, typical of
biotypes in which the water is present all year long.
Small
brooks that flow on a bed of dead leaves and sand mostly represent these water
systems. The temperature in the different biotypes varies from 17 to 28 °C.
The eggs, provided with adhesive filament, are laid both on the aquatic plants and on the bottom. These develop in water (but they cannot bear even a small dry period of some week) and they open in 10-20-days, according to the temperature. The sexual maturity is reached after around 4-8 months, according to the species. Some of these species can ever arrive at 4-5 year of life (Diapteron sp.).
For
the breeding and the spawning of a pair or a trio you could use little tanks of
about 5-10 liters, because the modest dimensions of the subject (for bigger
population it is necessary a little tank of 20-30 liters).
The
characteristic of the breeding water are not important while for the spawning
you need soft water with a pH lower 7 and a temperature around 24 °C for the
Aphyosemion of coastal forest and near savannas; lower temperatures, about 20 °C
are necessary for the Diatperon species (A. fulgens, A. abacimun, A. cyanosticum,
a seegersi), elegans species (A. exiguum, A. elberti, A. dargei), A.
joergensheeli and all the Aphyosemion of the camerounense group and of the most
inside forests.
As
a substratum for the spawn, you could use a “mop” (a 100%% synthetic wool
ball with an edge frayed into a fringe) let float and tied up the closed side
with a cork or a small container with some fibrous peat as other equipment you
could use Microsorium sp., Vesicularia sp. And Anubias sp.
You
could add a bottom of not calcareous gravel and a sponge filter running by the
air, but those are not necessary if regular water changes are made (besides the
mop furnishes a considerable surface for the installation of aerobic bacteria).
Lighting must not be intense.
The
eggs can be daily collected from the mop (good if it is not light in color in
order to easily find the eggs of amber color) by the hands and put in a small
container filled with water of the same characteristic of the breeding tank (better
the same water). You could also add some peat extract or, for the most difficult
species, full of problems, some drop of acriflavine (10mg/liter) to reduce at
the minimum the quantity the eggs that could grow mouldy (if this happens you
must remove them a soon as you spotted it).
Alternatively
you can store the eggs into a small container with some damp peat for around 20
days, then put the peat into water for the hatching (by this method all the eggs
hatch contemporarily). The fry accept micro worms and/or newly hatched brine
shrimp (for the most problematic species and for the first days you could add
some infusorians).
It
is advisable to feed the adults on all the type of fresh food drosophilae,
enchitraeus, chironomus, brine shrimp, also newly hatched and, for the lesser
problematic species also with flake food.
They
live in the coastal regions that extend from Cameron to Ghana where the
temperature of the water is about 35 – 30 °C, and in some inside zones of
Cameron where, however, the temperature of the water is about 19- 24 °C
(Raddaella sp.: for example A.batesii). In these zones the water systems never
dry completely nor regularly during the year.
The
eggs develop in water within about a month (only for some species) on in the
peat a period varying from two to three months or more. The sexual maturity is
reached in two months and the average life span is around two year.
The
dimension of breeding tanks must be greater than those of non-annual the
equipment must include many hiding places.
Recommended
plants are: Microsorium, Vescicularia, Hydrocotyle, Najas and floating plants
since the light must be intense. Because the dimension, but above all the
aggressiveness, for the smallest species (A.filamentosum, A.arnoldi, A.walkeri,
A.gardneri) you need 10 liters tank (for a pair) while the biggest species and
for many pairs you need tanks from 20-50 liters upwards, always employing a good
filtering system. As spawning substrate you can use a mop left on the bottom or
much better some peat (better if fibrous) placed in a container (not too small).
The eggs can be collected weekly, simply extracting the container from the tank,
squeeze its content (don not exaggerate) and place it in a plastic bag (leaving
a lot of air after closing it).
The various bags are kept in a dark place at 24- 28 °C to incubate for around 1 –2 months (A.gardneri, A.ndianum, A.puerli, A.amieti), while for 2- 3 months or more for the Fundulopanchax, Gularopanchax, Paludopanchax like A.sjoestedti, A.arnoldi, A.filamentosum, A.gulare and A.walkeri.
After
the diapause the bags content is put in a small container filled with water of
average hardness at 15 °C of temperature. The low temperature favors the
creation of enzymes necessary to the hatching.
For
spawning purpose the water characteristics aren’t so important however is
better to use soft acid water. The temperature must be around 25 °C or little
more (for A. batesii lower temperatures, around 18-23 °C are necessary).
For
the feeding purpose there isn’t big problems (some species accepts also flake
food) but to obtain god spawning result it’ necessary feed them with good
quantity of live food or, failing, frozen one.
They
come from the coastal savanna of Sierra Leone where the waterways dry up
completely once a year.
The
vital cycle in nature is less than a year (in captivity they can reach 20 month).
When
the water evaporates the damp of the ground protects the eggs laid in the bottom.
By this the eggs have time to develop (in around 5-8 months) waiting for the
next rain season. The sexual maturity is achieved in few weeks.
The
annual species are more aggressive and have bigger dimensions. It’s advisable
to put together only one male with one or more females in a tank of 40 liters or
more with many hiding places. Two or more males can be bred only in tanks of 80
liters or more. They are extremely tolerant for the water conditions provided
that they aren’t extreme (Hardness between 5 - 20 °dGh and pH 6.5 - 7). A
good filtering and an accurate cleaning of the tank are necessary because they
are more sensitive than other Aphyosemion to the infections and parasites. To
avoid or reduce these problems you could add a teaspoon of salt every 1o liters
of water and some extract of peat.
For
the spawning purpose you could use some peat (the fibrous one) placed in a not
too small container inside the tank.
Every
15 days you should collect the peat with the eggs, squeeze and place it in a
plastic bag, always with a good quantity of air. The peat will be soaked after
around 6 months of incubation at 22-23°C, either for A. occidentalis, A. toddi
or A. huwaldi.
To
stimulate the hatch you could add some microworms to the water (at around 20 °C).
If
well fed, that is if the live food (newly hatched brine shrimp, Cyclops and
daphnia) is constantly in the tank, and if the water characteristic are good the
small fish begins to spawn after 6-7 weeks. It is useful to add to the fry tank,
both annual and non annual, some snail to increase the general hygiene (excellent
the Linmees).
The
adults accept every type of live or frozen food willingly. Remember to furnish
always foods rich in cinders and poor on fats like drosophilae and daphnia to
avoid problems of sterility due to fats accumulation.
You
can also add to the spawning tank a bottom layer of non-calcareous gravel so the
fish can spawn everywhere and to collect the eggs you must carefully inspect all
siphon you made.
I
hope that this general smattering can be useful to those people who want to
undertake the breeding of this magnificent fish.
Remember
that the borderline between annual and non-annual is extremely subtle and
variable; it has been made only to facilitate the comprehension to the less
experienced hobbyist. In addition the life span of annual and non-annual depends
mainly on the breeding temperature and food furnished.
The
use of Aphyosemion term for these killi is not correct since (according to the
last studies on the Fundulopanchax powelli, performed by Zee & Wildekamp in
1994) new valid motivation have drawn aside to separate the group of
Fundulopanchax (the semi and annual) from the Aphyosemion (those non annual)
because they live in separate and different areas; they have:
·
egg structure
·
post-opercularis neuromastic system
·
opercularis scales disposition
·
skeletal structure
·
position and structure of the bladder
·
position of dorsal fin in regard of the anal
·
number of scales of the caudal peduncle
All
these elements demonstrates different evolutions lines
We
hope that this terminology, systematically exact, would be applied.