VACATIONS In OCCITANIA

BETWEEN you MARITIME ALPS

AUGUST 1997 - DIARY OF EDGE (SERIOUS SEEDS)

A&L Angela e Luciano

R&R Rosanna e Raul

The hostess of the SABARNUI cafe is Frecourt Nathalie, one Frenchman of Cannes that lives the country with the husband and the two daughters- from "soli-" and there tells his philosophy of life.

The country- "scopriamo-" is S. BERNOLFO, typical village "occitano", with the last houses with the roof in straw of rye and with "n°" fixed inhabitants= 4, that is the managers of the cafe, a duckling, of the dogs. We after such lunch stop with the duckling, with the dogs and then, exhausted, we sprawl on a meadow.

To the return standstill to Demonte then frugal supper, beginning of the layout of this diary of edge.

While To& L plays staircase 40, Raul looks for his quarter I hover in vain. Is Qual the book? E' the ""vademecum" of the "single boy"": that desire "spiccare" the flight?

For tomorrow there waits a good tart, acquisition of To& L to Vinadio.

LUNEDI' 4 AUGUST

Hours 9: departure for S.Giacomo- lake of the Downfall and interview with the "guardiaparco".

After an hour and half covers 500 meters of gradient and is on the 2015 beside the Genoa shelter. Along the path so much "cascatelle" and marmots that they launch acute whistles of alarm staying however to our sight.

We to a drawn are make do female between the stones and an of the with a chamois as many falls.

The virile chamois checked the situation from the top. We decide to abdicate to the slope of the With the Fenestrelle "de", because the reason prevails on the instinct.

We spend any hour on the shores of an alpine lake surrounded from "rododendri" and so much other flowers.

The return for a steep descent that begins to hard you/he/she/it try the knees; we return to the country and we become an ice cream (idea of Raul) in the only handicraft "gelateria" of the country, that arranges of well six tastes.

Evening of papers and of reading.

MARTEDI' 5 AUGUST

With the desire of walk that we find leave the car down down, immediately after the thermal baths of Valdieri and backpack in shoulder goes in the "vallone" of the assistant, "gias" of the house, "gias" of the flies and "pian" of the house of the king, where in last century the king "savoiardo" came to cultivate his loves.

Coasting along the stream, you/he/she/it begin the slope for the Remondino shelter. The insignia points out two hours of walk, instead three hours of hard struggle have stayed for scramble up on for stones and stairs with the knees that touched the stomach.

The shelter was seen from far away, but that snake didn't ever draw near.

Angela has stayed cultured from crisis of discouragement and wanted to plant all "li'", before arrive to the shelter, but Luciano has made it to reflect with the bad manners.

Rosanna had a slow footstep, more and more slow and in the desperate one Raul situation has begun to do the authoritarian, denies her the water to drink.

The sun beat strongly, also because there was not not even a tree, only green rock of lichens and vegetation from rock.

Finally we arrive "fumanti" with the feet.

Immediately lunch to the sack; they are observed of the climbers on a wall of rock; we try to find a place around the shelter for sleep, but as soon as found the downpour arrives and as the shelter does from shelter.

After any glass of "dolcetto", ascertained that it was not day for see the "stambecchi" and after a cleared breve, the return is decided.

Facts any "tornanti" the sky has covered itself again and down water, transformed shortly time in hail.

The descent is fast also because the smokes of the alcohol are made feel (but not in the case of Rosanna).

Finished the "incontrario" the slope has been reached the "bivio" for the shelter Regina Helen, where we like prize have eaten a beautiful heap of blueberries, that I/they is been assistants to the strawberries and to the raspberries of the morning.

Following meeting with a herd of very handsome cows (any has stayed counts 101, without count the ""mucchini"").

I to the height of the "gias" of the flies meet "ravvicinato" with a delicious marmot, for nothing puzzled of the fact that we observe it for different minutes in the on the "ritrarsi" and then observe us "incuriosita".

Who (also in succession) has the eye of lynx for discover the marmots it is Luciano, that in the turn of a minute discovers an other of it you/he/she/it sue to be a police officer on a "macigno".

Plain Pian and we with the painful feet arrive to the stain and we return the "camping" the Wood for the supper; would be interesting put sausage, lamb, sheep and kidskin on the grate, but from the only butcher of the country (= monopolist of the meat) we discover that the lamb comes sold only to quarters or whole or half with so much of "beautiful joy!" to the Rosanna that any claimed only two cutlets.

The "grigliata" however is been made in evening to the "camping".

It is time we are here to stretch these few lines, while our spread out cloths had stayed picked and begun to the sure an instant before the rain, to confirmation than written in a poster in the shelter "Italian good people"

To made accounts the "scarpinata" of today has stayed of 985 m. of gradient, verified from the altimeter of Raul that has "costantemente" checked in quota it.

MERCOLEDI' 6 AUGUST

The intentions are for a day of all rest.

The clouds help don't effect the made programs at night first.

After a slow awakening and a meditated breakfast, the "paesino" of Entracque is left for. Standstill in the beautiful central plaza and provisioning of bread of rye. Then we go to the thermal baths of Valdieri. Look at the show of the center visits much well organized, like after all all the initiatives "promosse" from the numerous centers visit of the Maritime Alps.

Visit to botanical garden with "aiuole" and naturalistic path well visible, that there allows a revision of the vegetation observed in our excursions "montane".

We must put something under the teeth. We on counsel of the "casaro" go to feel from the "Graziella," that there offers rabbit; the rabbit doesn't like to Luciano and opts for the self-service of the Real Park (potato dumplings to the drivel, trout to the fire, mixed "grigliata").

Pennichella in shore to the river and strided to the Gorges of the Reina that turns in three hours of comprehensive walk of the run in the middle of the throats that you/he/she/it reveal yourself fascinating, particularly for the "pink fall."

The return comes fact in crest and us it we call" path of the lavender."

The usual coercive methods of Rosanna and Luciano there has forced to go to the concert of classical music in the plaza of Entracque, with the interpretation of lyric passages of Galina Rustinova, Russian soprano that studies in Germany.

GIOVEDI' 7 AUGUST

Forenoon with the "obbiettivo" of participate to the course of "orienteering" but, considering that has finished stamped on from thirty children, we abdicate and we opt for the weekly market from Suburb St. Dalmazzo.

The "valligiani" call it simply "Suburb."

E' the occasion for see the center and buy a green undershirt ""padania"" for Luciano.

Subsequently we go in Val Vermegnana to Vernante, country of the cutlers artisans teachers.

We admire the "murales" on the fable of Pinocchio, beyond 100, and a ruddy "pizzicagnola" makes us discover as is good the lard and the bacon. Lunch in an area adjacent to picnic the cliff of the millstones: from that rock drawn out, or good "scalpellinate" came, millstones for the mills. Then we under a light rain leave for PALANFRE.' Along the road beautiful views on the Roofs (groups of houses).

We under the intermittent rain visit Lemon. Then return and supper to the Real Park.

Dopodiché has been present by parish room of ENTRACQUE to a projection of slides in cross fading on the Park of the Mercantour.

VENERDI' 8 AUGUST

Forenoon of sun. Departure of good morning for the Vallone of the Velasco and of here to the Shelter This, lakes of the Portette, of Claus and of Valscura.

You/he/she/it during the run meet the country house of shoot of the Savoia which they came to behavior "scorribande" in zone; could be told that, like the dynasty, also the country house of shoot is in decadence.

Happened E' a made snoops to the lake of the Portette. in shore to the Luciano lake has sighted 2 canoes and I/they naturally have liked to Raul that didn't see the time to do a "pagaiata" on the 2300, for enter the "guiness" of the supremacies. But there has entered for an other event.

After the "pagaiata risoltasi" shortly time because the canoe embarked water, Raul does an unloading technically perfect, all the people observed and photographed, then, canoe in shoulder for bring again it where had taken it crossing a steep ascent, we feel a strange noise, a deaf thud, and Raul falls under the canoe.

We from the top signal him "O.K." all good!!

But the "pover'uomo" returns on the edge of the lake, sits down and you/he/she/it begin to drench the "bandana" and to "passarsela" on the inferior articulations.

The public of above has surprised, until doesn't see flow COPIOSAMENTE the blood "Us was "scurghè tot"."

The descent has sort with the senses then a little bit altered.

Crossing of gallery along the "speedway" of the alpine. I meet with a very handsome chamois. Unforgettable the lake of Claus with to the center his islets "ricoperti" of green. As many falls of water. Returns to the base, "impomatata" of him skinned and closing with the ""ginepino"" to the "camping" The Wood.

SATURDAY 9 AUGUST

Meeting (in 3, not in 4) to Gias roofs, after S Ann of Valdieri, for the excursion driven to the VALLONE DELLA VAGLIOTTA. The purpose is that of approach "the art of the milk and of the cheese."

After a first part of run in "faggeta", "similappenninico", we enter the "vallone", completely deprived of vegetation and dominated from the course of the stream.

At the end we arrive to the place where the "pastora" is milking sheep and goats. We are present to the preparation of the milk for the "cagliatura". Lunch to the sack on the stream. After have acquired 3 Kg (well 3 Kg) of cheese of pure sheep from the "pastora" (that you/he/she/it, refined from the acquisition tell us particular of his activity) and be "ridiscesi" to valley, after the dismantlement of the curtain, To& L departs.

The first week is departed.

DOMENICA 10 AUGUST

All rest under the "larici de" The Wood. Breve gone out to Entracque for the daily paper. Partial regeneration of him skinned.

LUNEDI' 11 AUGUST

We leave the camping that rains on the serious. We to S.Trinità see Inn of the Smile and we imagine the possible excursions that we would have done without the rain.

Then shift in VALLEY GRAIN.

CARAGLIO has of the particular really "pregevoli"; Valgrana (country), Monterosso and of here entrance from Green Valley, that finishes to S. LUCIO DE COMBOSCOURO, where there greets Frederic- and partly his father, the "professore-" that, in the museum of the traditions "occitane" speaks to us along of this civilization, of their style of life and of the contacts with the French "provenzali" and then there shows the objects of the carver of wood, to the knife and not with the gouges.

I to Pradleves acquire of bread cooked in the oven to firewood and to Castelmagno standstill in the "paesino", with acquisition of jam and cheese "Castelmagno D.O.C." in the "Boutego Ousitano."

Ripercorriamo to bashful Valley and "nottata" with rain to S.Dalmazzo Suburb.

MARTEDI' 12 AUGUST

It doesn't rain more but clouds impend on the mountains. We decide to turn toward France, that is in the slope that more hears again of the proximity of the sea and, "conseguentemente", should guarantee a more favorable climate. Standstill to VERNANTE where we spend the whole forenoon to concern the frescos of Pinocchio and to "riscoprirne" of the new. We do acquaintance with the CARLET, that is the author of the paintings.

Lemon, Limonetto and then the tunnel (beyond 3 Km.) of CURTAIN.

In France.

There is the sun. Standstill to Curtain for have the first I/you/he/she/it compare on the Park of the Mercantour. We decide to devote us to DELLE VALLEY WONDER and relative incisions "rupestri".

we aim laws toward CASTERINO where, we for a tortuous road that follows the run of the ROJA, arrive to almost 1600 m. and we bathe in the green of the alpine landscape.

MERCOLEDI' 13 AUGUST

Day of "trekking" devoted the part north of the park, relatively to the "ns" zone. From above Casterino the Valmasque is left for. We graze the shelter for be suffered to the lakes, thinking about to stop us "li'" to the return. Lac Vert, Lac Noir, Lac "du" is enough. On the shores of "quest'ultimo" and during the lunch usually frugal, we realize that the run could be fact also to ring and, I/you/he/she/it despite the second part of the ring am more substantial, we decide to go on.

And here also "for the hard" "the play is made lasts" .Per arrive to the Baisse of Fontanalba- around 2600 m.- there attends 300 m. of gradient, steep slope in the middle of the rock. However has been worth it "perchè" the Vallone of Fontanalba of it it is a magnificence of flora of tall mountain (in bloom "semprevivo", "sassifraga", "campanelle".) and of fauna (chamoises and marmots). Other little ponds, then the Green lake, this time of Fontanalba, and we then discover a rock "graffittata" with heads of animals and "ascie". We are in the heart of the Vallèe Merveilles "des" and this zone is amplest and gives the possibility of approach a part of ""gravures rupestres"" without the accompaniment of the guide. The Sacred street, all in slope, it with the visible incisions that are at the right "nosra", is a "full immersion" in the tall age of the bronze.

We return on the 8 (20), after almost eleven hours of walk. Nottata to Canestrino, on the river.

GIOVEDI' 14 AUGUST

Today the destination is the other departs Merveilles "des" of the Vallèe, Bego Mount. We move to the LAC of the MECHES and we of "li'" depart, for the mine of Valaura and the Vallone of the Mines; it is a going that exploits all the possible deviations and "cosi'", we any will realize to the return, the excursion becomes indeed interesting. Small houses in stone, between which the "granges" Valaura "de" with his totem, marmots, raspberries and blueberries, then the Vallone of the Hell with his green rock. The destination is fairly disappointing: the lake is almost empty "perchè" there are the jobs maintenance to the dike in course; jobs in course also for the shelter; in more we find one two weeks of parked "fuoristrada"; sign is that valley could also become with different means from feet and "scarponi"!

We return to valley and we make to cover in the calm town camping of Curtain. On the river.

Meanwhile the Giovannino/ Rays have left for Denmark.

VENERDI' 15 AUGUST

Part of the day has devoted to Curtain, really notable.

Here, like in the following countries, there attracts the portals of the residences carved in green stone above all; any motives were "descalpellinati" during the French revolution. Evidently they were not in line.

Visit to the suggestive Museum Merveilles "des". We move Notre Dames FONTAINES "des", the "Sistina Chapel" of the Alps. Cert'è that Michelangelo was an other thing, however also this cycle of frescos, that covers the entirely interns of the small church, has a his charm. is seen that I/they am the result of two different painters, of which one naïver and the other "tendente" to the grotesque. In the "controparete", to the bottom, an universal judgment that, as for variety of the inflicted tortures, you/he/she/it overcome the imagination of the representations "dantesche". We stay then to you BRIGUE- center of the earth "brigasca-" in flood by from rooms, country that reveals ancient and well other shines.

We take back the S direction, with very handsome throats on the Roja.

Night to FONTAN, to the town camping. Naturally on the river.

SATURDAY 16 AUGUST

Forenoon of don't do nothing, only a fast "capatina" to Fontan. You/he/she/it raid of walnut-trees from the porthole of the mansard. Afternoon: SAORGE, to peak on the mountain, unbelievable town from the house sets the one to the others.

The first "ulivi" on terraced grounds.

Then throats of the Roja and BREIL SUR ROJA: to saunter for the city, with inauguration (that for us has the meaning of a greet "merenda") of show of compositions of pressed flowers and buckets. Again Nottata in the camping to Fontan.

DOMENICA 17 AUGUST

SOSPEL and his market "domenicale" of the local products. Houses on the Bevera with the façades "tromphe" the "oil". Lunch to the restaurant "you Cabraia." Then return in Italy for the small country of Olivetta. Verified the impossibility of "sostAre" for go to visit the Humbury gardens of Ventimiglia, we hijack on SANREMO. To saunter for the city, "addentrandoci" until in the district "medioevale" of the PINE-CONE- a true CASBAH of the North!

Nottata in the big parks on the sea; the trains are made to feel.

LUNEDI' 18 AUGUST

was from time that we felt speak about OLD BUSSANA, that today ours is first destination. Country of notable relief and enamel, destroyed from the earthquake of the 1887, of the all abandoned up to when any years ago any artists have begun to repopulate it. They have not reconstructed the country, they simply have "riutilizzato" the spaces, the rooms, stayed. Angles, studies and unusual "atèliers". A good "mezz'orea" to the "garden of the ruins," with taste of the grape of the vine-trellises, between which the grape strawberry. The road for the return she becomes with the suspended breath, "perchè" is greatly the passages in which it there is not other space that for the half "ns".

We return on the "ss". Aurelia and we take back the "ns". itinerary in the hinterland of the Ligure West, taking ARGENTINA VALLEY. We jump Taggia (the historical center would deserve a "sota", that will be for an other time) and we arrive to BADALUCCO with standstill in the I park reserved to the "camper". The country is discovered to little to little and you/he/she/it reveal characteristics "carigi medioevali", with the stores from the shelves in black stone which bench of exposure and sale on the by, still portals, now not more than green stone like "mella" valley of the Roja but of black stone. Interesting the interns of the parish, as usual rich of decorations "pittoriche" much adorns, colored and to effect. The country is called "gallery to open sky" for the "murales" and the panels of terracotta that as they reveal themselves in alleys.

This and the following countries are still well inhabited. I to the Panizzi mill acquire of olives and cream of olives, the "taggiasca".

In the handles of the river the boys do the bath and this us "ridà" the taste of the "ns". infancy.

is gone on for Mills of Triora and then TRIORA. Dense countries of history, that you/he/she/it reveal yourself to each angle. This is the country of the witches, consequence of a process of the lasted inquisition two years, that carried a certain number to "eliminarne". I/they in the museum have reconstructed the environments from kitchen (the fireplace didn't have the cloak, the smoke got out of a window aloft), of the milk, of the chestnut, of the wine cellar and of the field generally.

Raul doesn't want to lose the bridge after Triora toward Realdo: it is the Loreto bridge, where becomes "jumping", the jump with the elastic deeper from Italy, 119 m:

You/he/she/it to evening are returned toward the sea and, with the sunset on the coastline, we go to IMPERIA, where "sostiamo" on the Vespucci waterfront for the night.

MARTEDI' 19 AUGUST

We from Imperia go in ARROSCIA VALLEY. Forenoon devoted to PIEVE Of TECO, that once era important center of artisans, particularly cobblers. They testify the diverged central roads, to porticos, with front doors that we expresses, currently in good person closed part.

decamps to the search of the last stayed cobbler, such "Aldo Tassone," that is sewing with thread on purpose from him prepared the "tomaia" of a pair of "scarponi" from him realized beyond six years ago. Acuisto of pizza bread and of the excellent green cake to the oven '900. Then to the HILL Of NAVA, with two shops of the lavender. We with surprise ascertain that the mark "Coldinava Lavender" advertised many years ago, has a precise reference with a precise place. to Nava Bridge is been in Piedmont: the country has divided in two from the Tanaro: the S part is Liguria, above it is Piedmont. Lunch to the restaurant "you/he/she/it Bend you": "tajarin" to the "ragout" of rabbit, wild boar and cheeses of "alpeggio" (excellent the Rascheira) with honey. From RETURN us.

Walk in the principal course of ORMEA.

(Then Garresio, Vicoforte Mondovì- sanctuary from the enormous dome "ellittica" comes "saltato-" Villanova Mondovì, Chisa of Pesio, big "paesone"). Imboccata the Val of Pesio in direction of the Park, standstill for the night in the fraction of S: Bartholomew in the equipped area. On the stream, the PESIO, that is imposing, above all after the nighttime rain.

MERCOLEDI' 20 AUGUST

Expense to S. Bartholomew. Then to the Chartreuse and to Pian of the Gorre, adjacent to the village of Arduous. In the afternoon: naturalistic path, excursion of around 3.5 hours along the river and the activities from valley, that to feet there brings again to S. Bartholomew and return. Nottata to Pian of the Gorre.

GIOVEDI' 21 AUGUST

Today we think about to have overcome the "ns record" of excursionists: 1200 m. of gradient!!!!

Departure from the parks Gambin up to the GARELLI shelter (2000 m.).

In the initial part of the run, splendid falls; the shelter is a very beautiful construction, to the Plain of the Wolf; return all cow and horses; the "gias" are certainly used, "perchè" surrounded from seas of dung; then the little pond of the MARGUAREIS and, after all slope, follows all and only come down.

We along the run reveal ourselves to regret the system of system of signs (the ""balise"") of the French, very clearer and reassuring "sentieristica".

The run is beautiful however we don't meet the animals of the mountain to which we had accustomed in the Argentera and in the Mercantour; also less butterflies and only any whistle of marmots. And we that thought about meet the rooster "forcello", emblem of the park of Pesio, and the white partridges.

The Marguareis is an imposing mountain; we don't have sight ever completely clear of from the clouds. .però that show. .sembrava of be to him inflicted, "perchè" the clouds one "muovevano" in vertical and quickly.

After beyond eight hours, I reenter, descent to S. Bartholomew for DISCO, where we are us violent in the dance, to the open in plaza.

Plaza on the river, with a dozen of rabbits in liberty.

<<<< NOTE for an other trip in Liguria: from Albenga or from Imperia arrive (for the With the of Nava) to Viozene or Upega, and from there leave for the excursion to the Morgantini "capanno" in the park of Pesio, run that, taken from that slope, is briefer.

VENERDI' 22 AUGUST

Acquisition of cheeses (Rascheira and other) and "olii" to S. Bartholomew. LURISIA, PEVERGNANO and BOVES (both the countries with so much houses "tromphe" the "oil", generally signed Reinaudi) then CHERASCO (you/he/she/it here need return us and "farselo" more to deep).

Nottata in the area "camper" to the entry of the country, near to the castle "visconteo".

SATURDAY 23 AUGUST

Direction Dawn, to see the known market of Saturday. Ovunque aroma of chocolate (Ferrero).

To the "Soup of Pumpkin"- complete point sale of natural foods in Cooked street 4, little before plaza Risorgimento" we make perceive of integral rice and "bulgur".

We to Dawn will return.

Then decamps Salsomaggiore thermal baths. Unique the show with the 100 models of Pino Lancetti in the atrium of the Berzieri thermal baths. I walk evening, is slept in the parks planted with trees behind the thermal baths.

DOMENICA 24 AUGUST

We are on the by of the return. Standstill to S. Giovanni in Persiceto ("murales" in Plaza Bethlehem and lunch in typical inn). Hours 17: home.

ANGELA- LUCIANO (until at 9 o'clock/ 8) ROSANNA- RAUL

P.S. I Grumble have stayed disposed good always, also when the rubber in highway burst and on the difficult streets of the hinterland "ligure", "piacevolmente estroverso", has almost always prone the "small provisions" of Rosanna, has waited it when the slope was an enterprise- or, at least, doesn't have it too outdistanced and has not told "from the," experienced in the reading of the maps and in the definition of the positionings in the runs in "montagna-" has eaten round loaf of Triora "rafferma" from around one week renouncing the "sfilatino" type "baguette" as soon as "sfornato", has done the miracle of the glasses (from Rosanna ruined with an imprudent session) and other belongingses.

What is the beneficent effect of the tomatoes "heart of ox"??? do we Hope that do they begin to commercialize them also here.

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