Enjoy Tuscany: Art, Culture and Tourism in Siena and Sienese Province
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Through The Hills of Chianti
Walks to discover food, wines and nature
The Chianti,historic area between Florence and Siena, is world famous for the wine it produces. But the Chianti Hills have much more than wine to offer you. Travelling in the area, one can admire astonishing panoramas that seem to have come from a 14th century painting. Here, too, you will find little villages that are hundreds of years old, well preserved architectural gems, and the remains of ancient and mysterious civilizations. You will come upon taverns where local products are still made as they were centuries ago. And the wines, varied and diverse, ranging from the simple peasant wine, rustic and alive with the taste of grapes, to the complex and excellent vintages of world famous farms.
On the Chiantigiana road (SS 222), that runs from Florence to Siena, just a few kilometers away from Castellina in Chianti, we come upon Fonterutoli. This will be the starting point for our short but exciting excursion: "From Fonterutoli village to the remains of the Etruscan Necropolis of Fonterutoli". This walk will take approximately one hour.
The village, with its old and well kept homes is very picturesque. The streets are vibrant with the colors of flowers. The square has a quaint,little church. Don't miss the small restaurant "Osteria di Fonterutoli" with its typically Tuscan menu. You may select an exotic dish like wild boar, or sample the wonderful porcini mushrooms, truffles and fresh pasta. You may choose the simple yet elegant house wine or one of the truly wonderful local varieties that Gianni, the owner, will accurately describe for you. The restaurant has an attached delicatessen, where you can get good quality local salami, ham and cheeses, perfect for an improvised picnic.
Cross the Chiantigiana road (SS 222), just in front of the restaurant, and take the uphill road in front of you. You will pass the newer part of the village and walk alongside the woods, until, in about 15-20 minutes, you will come to a large dirt road that goes from Tregole to Vagliagli.
Take a right, you will not see any sign here, after few hundred meters (yards) you will see on the right a yellow sign: "Necropoli Etrusca di Fonterutoli". The Etruscan remains are along the first uphill path on the left surrounded by a magical cypress and pine woods. It is so still here. You are a visitor in a land alive with history. Look through the trees and enjoy a view of the valley. It is the perfect site to sit and relax. For the true walkers the main dirt road goes on to Vagliagli, a village on the very top of the hill from which you get a fine view of the Valdarbia.
If you are looking for a true glimpse of local life, go to Tregole, a couple of kilometers before Fonterutoli coming from Castellina in Chianti, to visit Duccio Fontani and his aromatic herbs. Duccio lives in an "out of time" place. He follows organic agriculture techniques and puts lots of love into his herbs. He sows, picks, dries, grinds and mixes them wisely to produce little jars full of spices of deep and intricate flavors, that can transform the simplest meal into a culinary discovery.Duccio can lead you on a visit to his herb garden, to the stream in the woods and to the Necropolis Etruscan of Fonterutoli, which isn't very far from his place. He can also provide rustic lunches or picnics for small groups Duccio's phone 0577-740662.
If you don't drive you can take a bus from San Domenico in Siena to Castellina in Chianti and ask to get off at Fonterutoli or at the road to Tregole, the bus runs every day except sunday. Call TRA.IN for the time schedule at 0577-204270.
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