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Food
and Wine Magazine
August
2002
Love,
Italian Style.
America
is mad about Italian food. Now the talented Benedetta
Vitali is proving why Tuscan and Sicilian recipes are
some of the most seductive.
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Her
name is Benedetta, a word that in Italian means "blessed,"
and it would be fair to say that Benedetta Vitali is
blessed with a singular palate. She is quick to detect
and analyze flavor distinctions, and she combines
ingredients into something new and unusual. Add to
that a fierce devotion to the traditions of her native
Tuscany and an inquiring mind that has led her all
over Italy in search of unique products, and you begin
to understand why a trek to Vitali's Zibibbo
restaurant on the outskirts of Florence has become a
gastronomic pilgrimage for many. And why her
beautifully illustrated cookbook, Soffritto:
Tradition & Innovation
in Tuscan Cooking, a sort of philosophy of
the kitchen told through recipes, is winning critical
acclaim all around the world.
Sunny
and bright, with big windows that open onto a leafy
grove, Zibibbo has the comfortable feel of a neighborhood
restaurant, as if it were not in the Tuscan capital
but in some much smaller, provincial town. Since it
opened three years ago, its bar has any time of day
gossiping over cappuccino and espresso. Situated just
off Piazza Careggi at the northern edge of town,
Zibibbo is not a glamorous restaurant at all, but
rather a place where food is to be enjoyed at ease and
with gusto.
And
what food! This is contemporary Italian cooking at its
best: innovative, "but not something that's just fallen
out of the heavens," Vitali says with a laugh.
Her cuisine is direct and honest--"frank" is
the word she uses. Consider a typical Zibibbo
antipasto, insalata di polpo, which combines meaty,
tender chunks of octopus with yellow-fleshed potatoes.
"The ones I used today are from Campania--not new
potatoes but the last of the season, because their
texture is better for salads," Vitali explains.
The octopus salad is served on a bed of delicate,
immature radicchio leaves, each barely bigger than my
thumb. Dressed with a rich, eeply-flavored Tuscan
olive oil and little else, it is a dish that lingers
in my memory.
Vitali
refers to her style as cucina giornaliera, cuisine of
the day. "In my kitchen, a refrigerator isn't
necessary, because what I buy in the morning I cook
that day," she explains. Simplicity is such a
buzzword with chefs today that it's hard to think of
it as more than a culinary fad; to Tuscan cooks like
Vitali, however, simplicity means looking at a dish
and considering not what you can add to make it
perfect, but what you can subtract.
This philosophy
has informed her career since 1979, when she and her
former husband, Fabio Picchi, opened Cibrčo, a
restaurant near the center of Florence next to the
open-air Sant'Ambrogio market. Cibrčo quickly became
one of the city's most noted eating places, not least
because of the couple's insistence on filling
their menu with truly Tuscan dishes. They banished the
pasta course that had become a national addiction,
serving only traditional Tuscan soups and
vegetable-based minestrones as the primo. Cibrčo
brought a sense of adventure to a city where the best
restaurants rarely offered anything more intriguing
than bistecca alla fiorentina.
Vitali's book remains true to these principles. She
gives just five recipes for pasta dishes, although she
includes a number of simple sauces that can be served
on pasta. The book begins with an explanation of the
most basic Tuscan technique of all, the soffritto, a
flavor base of aromatics, such as onions and garlic,
gently sautéed in olive oil, on which many recipes
are built. For this knowledge, she credits her former
mother-in-law, and her mother-in-law's mother-in-law
before her, back through the generations: "My
mother-in-law used to tell me that, once having
learned it, I would be able to make practically
everything," Vitali writes. "In Tuscany,
soffritto is the starting point."
Vitali may have
profound attachments to Tuscan traditions, but she
also feels attracted to the food of Sicily, where she
can still find flavors and ingredients that have been
handed down through centuries--salted capers and
anchovies, dried wild oregano and hot little
peperoncini (chiles) with which to marinate sliced eggplant.
Even the name of her restaurant, Zibibbo, is Sicilian,
from the Arabic word for raisin. (It's also the name
of a variety of white grapes, grown on the island of
Pantelleria, off the coast of Sicily, that produces an
intensely aromatic sweet wine.)
Her
Sicilian-style sweet-sour swordfish harks back to
complex Arab and Roman flavor combinations. I have had
many versions of fusilli alle sarde, fresh sardines
with pungent wild fennel greens, plump golden raisins
and olive oil, in Sicily, where it is practically the
national dish, but Vitali's take on it is the most
nearly perfect of all--the result, I feel, of her
selecting pristine ingredients and combining them with
a balance of sweet, salty, earthy and tart flavors.
Yet Vitali is Florentine born and bred, with a manner
of cooking that expresses what I think of as the
Protestant sobriety of Tuscans in the kitchen. Olive
oil--tinged with the bitterness of barely mature
olives--is the key to her food. And because Tuscans
are frugal (some say parsimonious) by nature,
ingredients are tied to the seasonal profusion of the
farmland that stretches along the Arno valley. No
Dutch hothouse peppers will ever have the flavor of
locally raised sweet peppers, especially when roasted
and served with ricotta made from the milk of Tuscan
sheep and sprinkled with sun-baked thyme from a Tuscan
summer meadow.
To find ingredients like these, Vitali forages through
city markets and the countryside, looking for
old-fashioned varieties such as the deeply ridged,
costoluto fiorentino tomatoes that are in season only
in late summer and fall. As for garlic: "It's
incredible," she says, shaking her head, "but
the garlic I find in globalization."
Fortunately, across the road from Zibibbo there's a
vegetable garden tended for the sheer joy of it by
three retired pensionati who, when I was there in
April, provided the restaurant with the last of the
cardoons and cavolo nero (Tuscan kale) and the first
bacelli (whole fava beans in their pods), spinach and
bitter greens.
The
produce from the garden has quickly became an integral
part of the restaurant and a deep source of
inspiration, Vitali says, not just for herself but for
her entire staff. With ingredients like these, with a
confident hand in the kitchen and with boundless
enthusiasm for what she is achieving, Benedetta Vitali
is bringing her cucina giornaliera to the world.
This
article originally appeared in August 2002 on Food and
Wine Magazine.
By
Nancy Harmon Jenkins
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Los Angeles Times
June 6, 2002
For
Authentic Florentine Flavors
Zibibbo
specializes in soulful dishes unfamiliar to tourists. But if
Florence is too far away, a new cookbook dishes on the Tuscan
treasures.
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FLORENCE,
Italy--Tuscany has become such a tourist destination it's hard
to find restaurants anymore that serve anything other than the
familiar roster of dishes
the tourists already know. Cibreo in Florence, which Benedetta
Vitali and Fabio
Picchi opened in 1979 fresh out of college, is one of the very
few exceptions.
Three years ago, Vitali left Cibreo to open her own place, and
it's become my
favorite place to eat in Florence. Named for the Sicilian grape,
Zibibbo Trattoria is only about 15 minutes from the city center
by taxi, but well worth the effort for its gloriously authentic
Tuscan food.
Ask to be dropped off at Piazzetta di Careggi. From that little
square, Zibibbo
is only a few doors down Via di Terzollina. There's no sign (or
at least not the last time I was there). Just look for a window
displaying some of the best wines in Italy. That's it. A small
bar opens onto an airy dining room that's much more
contemporary chic than rustic, but the food is soulful Tuscan
fare cooked with finesse and passion.
The menu changes frequently, yet everything on it sounds
interesting enough that
I could eat here every night. Vitali, who speaks English well,
will take your
order and translate any of the dishes you don't know.
Outstanding antipasti include insalata di gallina, a salad of
shredded chicken with a few leaves of bitter green radicchio,
julienned sweet peppers and a gorgeous, yellow, handmade
mayonnaise. There's also an inspired octopus and plump white
fagioli (beans)
salad drenched in lemon.
Pastas are first-rate too--everything from tagliatelle in a
rustic duck sauce
and spaghettini with quickly sauteed veal kidney to spaghetti
tossed with mussels, clams and tellini (a tiny, sweet shellfish).
Inziminio di calamari, which is squid and spinach, is a
traditional Florentine
dish that's hard to find anymore, and Vitali's is memorable.
Another Florentine favorite is trippa alla Parmigiana, a gratin
of tender tripe and Parmigiano Reggiano. And I crave her classic
arista, pork roast stuffed with herbs. I'd love to stay long
enough one time to eat my way through her entire menu.
But how often do any of us get to Florence? The good news is
that Ten Speed
Press ( www.tenspeed.com
) recently commissioned Vitali to write a cookbook. It's
called "Soffritto: Tradition & Innovation in Tuscan
Cooking" ($32.50), and is illustrated with photographs and
the pastel landscapes that hang on Zibibbo's walls.
The recipes reflect the simplicity and integrity of the best
Tuscan cooking.
You'll find her versions of raw artichoke salad and pappa al
pomodoro, Tuscan bread and tomato soup perfumed with basil. She
tops fettunta (essentially Tuscan bruschetta) with cavolo nero (Tuscan
black cabbage) and cardoons.
And
yes, she does include her recipe for the inziminio di calamari I
love and
arista too, along with musings on technique, ingredients and
serendipity in the kitchen.
Should you ever get to Florence, keep this address in your
pocket.
Zibibbo
Trattoria, Via di Terzollina 3/R, Florence; telephone:
011-39-55-433-383.
About $30 a person, not including wine.
By S. Irene VIRBILA - Times Staff Writer
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The New
York Times
January 27, 2002
On
the Fringes of Florence, Memorable Eating
ZIBIBBO
For about the last two years, Florentines and well-informed visitors
have been making the trip to the north side of town to try Benedetta
Vitali's new
restaurant. As the former
wife and partner of Fabio Picchi, of the Cibrčo restaurant complex, Ms.
Vitali was already a respected figure on the local gastronomic scene.
Zibibbo is a wonderful, idiosyncratic restaurant. Because of its
somewhat remote location and lack of outdoor tables, its clientele is
primarily local people.
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The square dining room is reached in a pattern
typical of Florence by passing through a shoplike front room and
corridor, from which the kitchen is visible. The room is unobtrusively
modern, well designed with comfortable levels of sound and light and
well-spaced tables for about 40. The small staff, led by Ms. Vitali
herself, who shuttles between kitchen and dining room, is professional
and discreet.
Devotees of the robust flavors and revisited Tuscan tradition that
characterize Cibrčo's dishes will recognize some old favorites, such as
inzimino di calamari, a very spicy stew of squid and spinach. Minestra
di lampredotto, too, a hearty tripe soup, Franco's happy choice, couldn't
be more Florentine. The zibibbo, however, is a Sicilian grape used dried
in desserts and to make a dense, sweet wine. And the menu contains
plenty of nods south (for instance, spaghetti simply sauced with red
mullets or swordfish) and even east - a stuzzichino of chickpea purée,
strewn with pomegranate seeds, and an antipasto of smoked eggplant
mousse were interpretations of Middle Eastern favorites. Another
antipasto, winter squash flavored with amaretti (yes, the cookies),
alludes to Emilia-Romagna.
Some superb dishes had no clear geographic roots: a voluptuous antipasto
of skewered melting chunks of scamorza cheese and pieces of pear, and a
main dish of boned lamb flavored with lemon peel, as refined as the
squid stew was brash.
Only a person of impeccable judgment and technical skill can pull off
this sort of multicultural menu in Italy, and Ms. Vitali has managed it.
The largely regional wine list is relatively brief but very well chosen
and well priced. My wine writer-friend picked a superb Chianti Classico
Riserva, Berardenga Rancia 1997 ($29.50).
By Maureen B. Fant
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The
Wall Street Journal
Jenuary 23, 2002
A toque
trick
Praise
be, finally, to Ten Speed Press of Berkeley, Calif., which has pulled
off what might be called a toque trick, three winners, all different.
“Soffritto” by Florentine chef Benedetta Vitali (240 pages, $32.50)
cuts through the mist and mystification that other authors have allowed
to shroud Tuscan food. She puts the farmhouse simplicity back in and
doesn’t forget to help you find authentic ingredients. Some
authorities may tell you to substitute supermarket kale for cavolo nero
(black cabbage) in the classic soup ribollita, or make you think you
will always live in darkness because there is no nipitella, the Tuscan
wild mint, in North America. Here you learn that cavolo nero is
occasionally sold in this country as elephant or lacinato kale and that
nipitella can be ordered from Goodwood, Ontario, through the Web site www.richters.com
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By
Raymond Sokolov
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Houston
Chronicle
Jenuary 23, 2002
A
chef’s spirited journey into Tuscany’s grandeur.
Benedetta Vitali is quite the woman about town in the Tuscan jevel city
of Florence. Whether she’s wandering the streets in search of fresh
produce (and spirited bander) in the outdoor markets or cooking in her
trattoria named Zibibbo. Vitali lives within the grand yet rustic
traditions of Tuscan cuisine.
Her new cookbook, “Soffritto”: Tradition and Innovation in Tuscan
Cooking” (Ten Speed Press, $32.50) begins with the aromatic
preparation of onion, carrot and celery at the heart of so many Italian
dishes – then works its way outward from there. There are both Old
World recipes and creative Vitali spins, the kind that make her
restaurant a destination and her home a delight.
Since Tuscan food is always a matter of basics, Vitali covers the
recipes that matter most: fresh tomato sauce, white beans with
prosciutto, tomato and sage, plus Tuscany-famed bread soup called
ribollita and the original crostini. Innovative twists include Vitali’s
spinach soufflé, cauliflower gratin and fresh fig torte.
Some of this book’s charm is watching the chef-author make her way
through colorful quarters of the old city. For this treat, we must thank
Boston-based photographer Cary Wolinsky. Vitali is living her life with
great spirit, and we get to watch her, and to share.
John
DeMers
The
Wichita register
Autumn
2001 - n. 21
A
delightful synthesis of contemplation and cuisine, of recipes from and
reflections upon earthy Tuscan cooking, this cookbook is a quiet stunner.
Like most really great stories, it begins at the beginning, with the
preparation of the aromatic, sautéed vegetable mixture called Soffritto, which is the foundation for a wide variety of Italian dishes.
Organized not by the usual categories but rather by chapters that
include “Layering Flavors,” “Memory and Innovation: Finding the
Equilibrium,” and “Alchemy in the Kitchen,” Soffritto leads the
reader through the Tuscan countryside, through stories revealing the
secrets of great Italian food preparation, and into the kitchen of the
author, Florence’s most acclaimed female chef. Much more than a
cookbook, Soffritto is mesmerizing-and inspiring. |
New
York Daily News
Jenuary 23, 2002
Book
review
In
Italian cooking, soffritto is an aromatic blend of onion, carrot and
celery that is the foundation upon which many Tuscan sauces, soups and
other dishes are built. It’s also the name of a fine new book by
Benedetta Vitali, a restaurant chef who has lived and worked all her
life in Florence. The author has operated her own trattoria, Zibibbo,
since 1999, and her emphasis in her book is on using fresh produce in
contemporary dishes, as well as the traditional preparations of the
region. “Soffritto” (Ten Speed Press, $ 32.50) opens with a recipe
for this minced vegetable preparation, which in Italian means “underfried”.
The instructions are precise and extensive, because, as the author tells
us, learning to make a good soffritto takes both time and patience.
Vitali proceeds to offer a great selection of traditional first courses,
including a very simple fresh tomato sauce. Pasta dishes are a strong
point of this endearing book: The Ragu, a basic meat sauce, is a little
more complicated to make than sauce recipes in other books, and it
requires not just hamburger but a good beefsteak, pork sausage, chicken
livers and beef suet, but the rich and savory results are well worth it.
The book is not only nicely designed, but it’s chock-full of photos,
too, so you get a real feel for the Tuscan region. (The photographer,
Cary Wolinsky, works often for National Geographic.)
Great artwork aside, this is a fine book to cook from if you are
interested not just in compiling recipes, but in learning techniques. A
comprehensive section on oven roasting is followed by a recipe for
roasted duck with red wine gravy, and the section on boiling contains a
recipe for poached sea bass. All in all, this is a good read if you’re
experiencing the winter blahs and would like a “mini-escape” to
sun-soaked Tuscany.
By Rosemay Black
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