Milan
- Gaggiano cruise - City section of future Locarno–Milan–Venice
tourist route
Departing
from the Porta Ticinese dock, a junction for commercial transport to and
from Lake Maggiore, we head upstream along the Naviglio Grande, passing
under the Scodellino bridge. From here we can see the Vicolo dei Lavandai,
one of the numerous public washhouses along the Naviglio Grande, where for
centuries the women of Milan handwashed clothes.
Slipping quietly through the water, we reach the church of San
Cristoforo, one of the most celebrated churches along the first section of
the Naviglio Grande, where duchesses, kings, and emperors once entered
Milan by canal. On the right bank, along Via Ludovico il Moro, note the
sculpted mouths, built for drawing off water for irrigation. The canals
still irrigate 60 thousand hectares (148 thousand acres) of cultivated
land on the plains around Milan and Pavia. After passing what was once the
Richard Ginori factory, we come to a relic from the industrial past: an
elevator that once connected the canal to the ex–San Cristoforo railway
station. On the right bank of the canal is the commune of Buccinasco where
we see the first farmstead of our voyage. We then pass through Corsico,
originally a farming village that has grown into a small city. Beyond the
town center we come to the Cascina Guardia di Sopra, a farmstead built
around the canal and one of the oldest on the Naviglio. The main entrance
to the farmstead is still surmounted by the coat of arms of the ruling
Visconti family. The canal that for centuries has irrigated the farm’s
extensive lands is also named after the Viscontis. Our cruise continues on
to Trezzano sul Naviglio and, after passing through a long stretch of
countryside, we come to Gaggiano. In the picturesque town center, once a
port on the Naviglio and known as Navigium de Gazanum (since during the
early stages of its construction the canal ended at Gaggiano), we can
admire the austere beauty of the Villa Marino and the colorful restored
facades along the banks. Our
cruise of the Naviglio Grande ends just before it passes under the
Vigevano road bridge, near the 18th-century Palazzo Venini Uboldi, where
we can also admire the baroque facade of the church of Sant’Invenzio sul
Naviglio Grande.
The
Naviglio Grande
The
oldest canal in Milan, the Naviglio Grande (also known as the “Naviglio
Maggiore”) was built when Milan was a city-state, reusing sections of
the Ticinello, an irrigation canal that formed the border between Milan
and Pavia. It was extended to Gaggiano in the 12th century. The canal was
originally used for irrigation. Navigation began in the second half of the
13th century and flourished after 1387 with the transport of marble from
Condoglia to Milan for building the city’s cathedral. Used for
transporting sand, gravel, and pebbles up to 1975, the Naviglio Grande
remains navigable and is still used for irrigation.
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