Minturno and its districts

By Mario Rizzi

and traslated by Fabio C.  Filosa

Minturno is situated on a hillside at 145 meters above the Tyrrenean sea level. It has kept its original name “Traetto” until July 13,1879. It began to be constructed at the end of 590 AD, it has three main gates: “La Portella”, “S. Stefano” and “Porta Nuova”.

Baronial Castle

For over 1200 years many historians have written that the Castrum Leopoli construction was ordained by Pope Leo III (later ordained Saint) between 795 and 816 AD.

Through further studies it is shown that the castle had been fortified with towers by  Pope Leo, proof of which is found through the Carta Originale Cassinese n° 5 of Oct. 10, 839, third indiction, which states: [...]   Certum est me domnus Leo sanctus episcopus sancte Menturnensibus cibitati et Kastro Leopoli. [...].

The scholars have erroneously connected the date of the pontificate of Leo III (from Dic. 26, 795 to June 12, 816) with that of the construction of the castle, done by archbishiop Leo.

The Pope surely couldn’t have ordered the construction of the baronial castle, because he came from a poor family and was elected by the clergy in contrast with the lay nobility, which had prevailed in Rome under Pope Adrian I, and was furthermore contrasted by the people which saw in the temporal sovereignty of the pope an obstacle to constitutional freedom.

In 1105 the baronial castle passed under the control of Richard I of L’Aquila and in the XIII century it became the residence to the Caetani family. It gave hospitalty to important personalities, such as S. Thomas of Aquino (1272).

In 1452, by ordinance of Alfonso of Aragon, there was a considerable restoration done.

In the XVI century the castle belonged to the most beautiful woman in Italy, Giulia Gonzaga, countess of “Traetto” and of Fondi and, subsequently, to Isabella Colonna.

On January 7, 1689 Nicola Guzman-Carafa died. He was the first son of donna Anna Carafa and  duke Medina de las Torres, viceroy of Naples from 1637 to 1644.

Deceased without heirs, the riches of the prince Nicola de Guzman of Stigliano were confiscated by the Royal Chamber and were later auctioned. After numerous offerings the dukedom of Traetto, including the baronial castle, was assigned for 102 thousand ducatis, to don Adriano Carafa.

Even in this case, the scholars have always attributed the acquisition of the baronial castle  of Minturno to don Giuseppe Russo and to don Adriano Carafa, the latter being the agent and procurator of his valoruos brother Antonio Carafa, count of Traetto and marshal to the Throne.

After Antonio Carafa’s death, in Vienna on March 6, 1693, his relatives had a marble bust of the valorous conductor placed in the hall of the Baronial Castle of Traetto with the following statement encarved: Antonio Carafa son of Marc’Anthony  first son of the family, Cavalier of Tosone, Gentile to the Chamber of His Cesarea Majesty, Field General Marshal, General Comissioner of the army, Plenipotentiary in Italy, Cesareo Ambassador in Rome, Count of the Holy Roman Empire, eleventh Sir of Forlì and Sir to the state of Traetto, of Cerro and of Montenegro-1693.

Antonio Carafa, born on  August 14, 1642, besides Adriano had as sibblings Carlo, born on 1632, Margherita Lucrezia, born on 1639, and two more sisters: Vittoria Antonia and Eleonora.

In the same city, on Sept.25 1673, Antonio Carafa married Caterina de Cardona, daughter of Alfonso, Marquise of Castelnuovo, and of Margherita Teresa d’Eril.

Antonio Carafa, dying without progeny, donated to his nephew Adriano Antonio I a majorat of 400 thousand ducatis. In his will there is no trace of the baronial castle of Minturno. Antonio’s wife died on Nov. 5, 1726. If Antonio would have baught the castle, he would have left it to his wife or nephew, along with the majorat, with the duty to sustain for life their aunt Catherine with an annual pay, as the Carracciolo-Carafa tradition called for.

Through the Carafa of Naples famil tree, “Tavola IX, dukes of Traetto since May 8 1712, and the counts of the Holy Roman Empire since 1686”, it is said that the castle was acquired by Adriano Carafa, brother of Antonio.

On May 26, 1676 Adriano married Lucrezia Caracciolo, daughter of Cantelma Sorgente and Fabio, count of Picerno and later of Serramezzano as well. Lucrezia was  the widow of Francesco Rossi, duke of Serre, and of Francesco Muscettola, prince of Leporano.

With Royal permission in 1692, Adriano baught also the rights to the Traetto passage upon the Garigliano river. These rights were given to Adriano on Feb. 6 1699, postmortem.

In July 1692, Adriano baught the land of Traetto, of Fratte,Castelforte, Spigno, Castelnuovo, Castellonorato and Maranola, which were all assigned to the Royal Court, after Nicola Guzman-Carafa’s death.

The title of these lands was registered in the Cedolario on March 14 1697, that is after Adrian’s death on September 19, 1696.

In Naples, Adriano was the administrator of numerous charities. Lucrezia Caracciolo died on Feb. 14, 1695.

Before his wife’s death, Adriano Caracciolo married Isabella Tomacelli on June 28, 1693. She was born on Feb. 24 1671, daughter of Federico and Chiara Gesualdo.

Adriano Antonio I°, son of Adriano and Isabella, was born on September 20, 1696. He inherited his paternal posessions of Traetto, Castelforte, Fratte, Spigno, Castellonorato, Maranola and Castelnuovo. On May 8 1712 he was nominated duke of Traetto.

Isabella died in November 1708.

The baronial castle was the main site of the Carraciolo-Carafa family  from 1693 to 1948. Subsequently, Prince Giovanbattista Caracciolo-Carafa, son Francesco, donated part of the castle to the moral Institution for Childcare (founded on March 27 1930 by R.D. n° 372) of Minturno on Dic. 17 1948, with deed n° 678 by the notary clerk Cesare Castelli, for the purpose of “(...) a truly educative goal of apostolate and  culture”.

The City Hall of Minturno baught part of the castle from prince Francesco Caracciolo-Carafa and part from the Childcare Institution on Dic. 28 1990 (rec. N°631) for 15 million Lira. Since 1994 the restorations for strengthening and covering are proceding. 

The Church of S. Francis

“Extra moenia”, near the Castle, stands the church of S. Francis which was built, around 1320, by Roffredo III Caetani, nephew to Pope Bonifacio VIII and count of “Traetto” from 1299 to 1336. Roffredo married Giovanna, last heir of the L’Aquila family.

The church was constructed upon a pre-existing franciscan  “place” ordained with noble chapels  of the Orsini and Caetani families.

Inside the church of Saint Francis was buried Nicolò I, who died of plague in 1348, as well as the countess Giacoma Bella Orsini, who died in 1363. She was the mother of 27 year old Onorato I Caetani.

 In 1363 (estimated date of the construction of the church, according to the vicarage of Francesco Antonio Riccardelli) The will of Onorato I Caetani was worded  on march 26, from which we can see that the church of Saint Francis already existed for some time, for only the church of Annunziata in Fondi is mentioned as being de novo constructa.

 We have some information of the Franciscan construction in the text Il provinciale by brother Paolino of Venice, bishop of Pozzuoli from 1324 to 1344.

 In the lunette, above the entrance, there was placed a mosaic work by Antonio Notari in 1970. The inside of the church is in raw stone and with just one nave, in the way that the Franciscans preferred it to be, because it was more suitable for prayer.  On the right wall we have the painting of the “Madonna delle Grazie”. In her honor, in the second ten days of July, there celebrates the legendary feast of the “Sagra delle Regne” (festival of the sheafs of wheat).

On July 21, 1552 the “Madonna degli Angioli” was closed because on the beach of Scauri the Turks and the Sarcens arrived, headed by the pirate Dragut. The infidels burned down “Traetto” and took 200 prisoners. A religious legend says that a storm sank Dragut’s ship and, in order to save his life, he cried out the name of Mary. Immediately the waters calmed and the infidel returned to shore, freed the prisoners and handed over the goods.

In 1621, during the works of restoration, the painting of the Madonna came to life, which had been walled 69 years before. As the works continued a big piece of stone broke off from the wall and fell upon a mason worker called Simonelli. Yet, the poor man was uninjured and immediately the people cried out for the miracle. Since that day the “Madonna degli Angioli” changed name into “Madonna delle Grazie”. There was a big feast and throughout the streets of “Traetto” a long procession formed. From the balconies and windows the people of Traetto hanged down their ornamental blankets in honour of the Madonna, brought triumphantly among the onlookers.

In 1813, by the suppression law of the religious corporations promulgated by Napoleon Bonaparte on September 13, 1810, the Franciscan convent was expropriated by orders of Murat and reconfirmed by the king Ferdinand I. The property was turned into military quarters, being the premises donated to the City Hall of Minturno and the earnings incorporated by the Crown property. A part of the property returned to the Franciscans in 1858. In 1970 it was completely stripped and restored of all its baroque ornaments. Worthy of note is the roman cinerary urn with swags placed on the left wall of the church. Behind the altar there is the wooden cross done by the artist Paolo Frattari. 

The Church of  Our Lady of Annunciation

Another church that stands outside the city wall is the Church of Our Lady of Annunciation, in gothic stile, it was constructed around the year 1300 by the Minutilli family. It has undergone various reconstructions throughout the centuries because of the damages done by the Turks in 1552, by the Franco-polish troops in 1799, by the fire of 1888 and by the last World War in 1943. In 1930 all of the baroque altars were destroyed, and the thirteenth-century paintings came to light. A wonderful badge of the city, with the writings Heredes Minturnarum , was walled on the outer face of the narthex. That same year the pavement was rebuilt  and the ceiling was done with a new beam structure in wood. In 1934 the bell tower was built. The last restoration dates back to 1950-1951.

In front of the entrance there stands a colonnade, with three ogival arches, where the catechumen would gather, that is the Christians who were not baptized yet, which were not admitted to all phases of worship.

At the centre of the wall is situated a bronze bust of Pietro Fedele, legendary minister of Education. Above there are three paintings by Maso Di Banco, done between 1340 and 1343 (Angeli Musicanti).

Behind the altar there is a painting which represents the “Crucifixion”  done in 1333 by Giotto or by his pupils during their return from Naples. Other votive paintings are enclosed within framed works: Madonna on a Throne with Infant, archaic Saints, Holy Pope. The paintings of the dome vault and in the four veils of the presbyterate portray the Redeemere in the celestial hierarchy, The Doctors of the Church and the Evangelists.

On the right hand wall a ligneous sculpture is beautifully shown, highly prominent, portraying the Announciation, donated by Pietro Fedele in 1931. On the same wall there is an oil canvas “Madonna with Infant and  Domenican Saints” done by Francesco Curia in 1580.

Painted on a second canvas is “Virgin Mary with Infant inbetween Saint Lucy and Saint Catherine” done  in 1540 by the artist Giovan Filippo Crisciulo.

 Collegiate Cathedral of S. Peter

The Collegiate Cathedral of S. Peter was built in the IX century and rebuilt in the XII century. Throughout the years it has sustained some re-arrangements. The Church has a narthex with arches of uneven ogival arches, where the catechumen would gather during the sacrificial phase of the mass. Above the narthex stands the a three level bell tower, with mullioned windows, placed upon two Corinthian capitals. The blueprint of the church consists of a latin cross (three naves). The two lateral naves have been added on throughout the centuries. The ogival arches lie on two stone and marble pillars with capitals of different stiles. The materials were brought by the ancient “Minturnae”. The central nave is covered with a wooden caisson made up of squares and golden rosettes in the center. In the middle there is the bearings of the papal tiara and the keys of S. Peters. On august 17 1851, king Ferdinand II along with his family, at sunset visited the church for the inauguration of its caisson. On the right nave there opens a jewel of baroque art, the “Chapel of Sacramento” of 1587, covered with polychromatic marble. On the central wall a canvas representing the “Last Supper”, done by Andrea da Salerno, known as Sabatino. The noble weddings were celebrated in this Chapel. In the nave on the left there is an altar dedicated to S. Vittore, protector of “Traetto” up to Sept. 6 1850 (assigned by Pope Pious IX).

Of great artistic interest is the “Pulpit”. The columns on which it stands are uneven, just like the capitals of the VIII and IX century. The banisters of the “Pulpit” are panels elegantly decorated with mosaic geometrical stile of the XIII century. The two lateral banisters next to the small stairs of the entrance are in sheets of marble (1150) with a sculpture in low relief representing the biblical episode of Giona who is swallowed and vomited by the sea monster, the “Pistrice” (an anticipation of the death and rising of Christ). The whole “Pulpit” was composed in 1618 as recorded in the city hall badge placed on the central banister. Beside it there is the “Paschal candle” (1264) upon an elegant candlestick completely decorated in geometric mosaic stile. On the major altar there has been placed a fresco of the XIII century representing the “Madonna delle Grazie”. Behind the altar are some remainders of paintings datable to 1400 dedicated to the “Madonna della Neve”.

Attached to the church there is the “congregation”, built in three naves of gothic arches on pillars of stone. On the second pillar we can see a niche that has been removed and placed on the main altar of the church of S. Peter, the “Madonna delle Grazie” which came to light during the restoration works of 1954. The “Congregation” is dedicated to S. Filippo Neri, as well as the small lateral chapel in whose vault are painted frescos of the Baroque period. On the left a ligneous chorus of the 18^th century is beautifully placed. Above the chorus, nine canvases and tables of “The Glory of S. Filippo Neri” are painted by the most important Italian Rococò artist, Francesco De Mura, known as “Franceschiello”. Under the congregation’s pavement there was a cemetary where the common people were buried. The nobles, instead, were buried under the church’s pavement.

South-east of Minturno, at the base of the Frezzella hill, in the Fontana Perrelli quarter, there stands the 14^th century church of “Santa Maria of Bethlem”, today known as “Madonna della Libera”. It presents on its façade a colonnade of three gothic arches. The interior is of three naves and it was restored thanks to the interest of the historian Pietro Fedele. On the third Sunday of September there is a strictly agrestial celebration, with a very important fair.

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 Minturno has a population of about 18,400 people. You can get there by the Appian way Rome-Naples, from the A1“autostrada del Sole” with exit at Cassino, and by train from Rome to Naples, at the Minturno-Scauri station.

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MINTURNO is surrounded by four hillside hamlets:Tufo, Tremensuoli, S. Maria Infante e Pulcherini and two seaside hamlets: Scauri e Marina di Minturno

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Minturno has a population of about 18,400 people. You can get there by the Appian way Rome-Naples, from the A1“autostrada del Sole” with exit at Cassino, and by train from Rome to Naples, at the Minturno-Scauri station.